Northern California’s Mendocino County is home to an inordinate number of natural treasures, and so few residents that you’re often completely alone when exploring them. This was the case when I visited the coastal region with my mom and young daughter during peak summer travel season. At Russian Gulch State Park, on the bluffs of Mendocino Headlands State Park, at nearly every stop we made, we were on our own, ramblers in a sea of quiet.

That’s how it should be in Mendocino County because so much of the area is protected. There are 24 state and national parks here, plus hundreds of miles of incredible hiking and biking trails and secluded shores.

This is the ancestral land of the Pomo tribe, but European settlers arrived in the early 1800s and essentially pillaged it for timber. The Mendocino Lumber Company was founded in 1853, and it cut down trees here for almost a full century, until protections came into play. Stunning Hendy Woods State Park, for example, was established in 1958 to preserve old-growth redwood trees. Northern California’s coast is one of the few landscapes in the world where the magnificent redwood grows, and to walk among them is a spiritual experience — many have stood for more than 1,000 years, and they’ll be here long after those who gaze upon them.

For big trees, gorgeous coastal trails, and a peek at Golden State history, here’s how we suggest you explore Mendocino.

What to Do in Mendocino

Visit Mendocino Headlands State Park

Mendocino Headlands Trail, a 4.2-mile, out-and-back trek, skirts along the edge of a bluff, wild grasses and flowers swaying in the wind on either side of you. (The only other place I’ve seen such coastal beauty is actually 150 miles south, in Point Reyes.) Rock formations far below the cliff’s edge are gorgeous, but with mostly brush as your barrier, it’s best to watch your step and keep younger travelers close. Pack binoculars to get up-close looks at brown pelicans and egrets, and marvel at lupine and other wildflowers if you’re visiting in spring.

Hike Fern Canyon Loop.

Find this 6.2-mile loop trail in Russian Gulch State Park, which is just south of the town of Fort Bragg. You’ll get intimate with the landscape on this canyon trek, following a creek through dense forest with plenty of redwood trees. (Always check park websites before arriving, though, as storms can wash out trails and lead to temporary closures.) And before or after your trek, walk under the very pretty Russian Gulch Bridge to visit the shoreline here. We easily spent two hours here looking at sea birds, abalone, and other shells washed up on the sand.

Ride the Skunk Train

Known as the Redwood Route, the tracks laid in this region date back to 1885, when trains carried logging workers and their families — and, of course, actual logs. Today, any route on the Skunk Train is a slow and easy ride kids and train enthusiasts will love. We bought the souvenir popcorn bucket on our 75-minute, round-trip ride from Fort Bragg to Pudding Creek Estuary, snacking and marveling at how close we were to the redwoods, their rough and red bark the ultimate shield, protecting them from fire and insects.

Visit Glass Beach

The history of Glass Beach is among many a head-scratching California tale, and it goes something like this: for the first half of the 20th century, water dump sites were sanctioned, so residents disposed of all kinds of things right in these waters — appliances, everyday glass items, and more. They’d light it all on fire from time to time to reduce the rubbish, and then when the site got too full, they’d make a new one nearby. Glass Beach is the site of Mendocino’s third water dump. It stopped being used as such in 1967 (and the practice ended for good), but the now-smooth shards of all that trash continue to wash up in this rocky coastal nook. My mother is a collector at heart, a modern-day treasure hunter, and as she picked up bits of sea glass and fawned over her findings as if they were shells, I saw “one man’s trash is another man’s treasure” in action.

Visit another Mendocino beach.

Glass Beach isn’t representative of Mendocino’s shoreline, so leave time for another beach stop — the county has 90 miles of coastline and many accessible beaches to choose from. Note that even in July, the average high here is 66 degrees Fahrenheit. We suggest arriving in layers and pants you can roll up, then ditching your socks and shoes near your car and exploring barefoot. If you’re close to Fort Bragg, head to Jug Handle State Beach, where you’ll find tide pools (at low tide) and a kid-friendly lagoon to play in. If you’re in the southern part of the county, check out Bowling Ball Beach, named for the giant round formations that reveal themselves at low tide. Big River Beach is another favorite, and Van Damme State Park offers a great stretch of sand, too.

Where to Eat and Drink in Mendocino

Mendocino Village

“Downtown” would be an ill-fitting term for this charming stretch of shops and Victorian structures on a bluff, so “village” it is. It’s adorable and peaceful and simply relaxing to walk around here, the coastal wind whipping right up from the sea. We popped into a few cafes and coffee shops for snacks, and recommend you do the same. Good Life Cafe is likely the only place you’ll wait in any form of a line, because people are happy to wait for fresh baked pastries here. Try Fog Eater Cafe for plant-based Cali cuisine. And don’t skip Cafe Beaujolais, a French spot in an 1893 Victorian farmhouse. If you don’t feel like a fine-dining experience, go midday, Wednesday to Sunday, for wood-fired pizza in the garden.

Anderson Valley

If you spot rolling hills near California’s coast, it’s pretty safe to assume there’s great wine nearby. No surprise then that dozens of wineries dot Mendocino County’s Anderson Valley, which is 10 to 20 miles from the shore, depending on where you’re coming from or headed. If you prefer to wine taste while snacking, book a private visit to Fathers + Daughters Cellars, where wine comes with charcuterie curated by Boonville market Disco Ranch, and guests enjoy the experience from atop vineyard hill. Other tasting rooms for your list are Lichen Estate, Toulouse Vineyards, and Goldeneye. Note that most require a timed reservation, so it’s best to plan your visit in advance.

Boonville

An agenda-less day in a small town is a good day, and Boonville (pop. 1,035) checks all the boxes for me: diners, general stores full of snacks and local creations, antique shops, and more. Arrive hungry and thirsty so you can stop at Pennyroyal Farm for pinot and cheese, and/or a farmstead tour, and Disco Ranch market for provisions to go. If you’d like to stay right in town, check in at the one-of-a-kind Boonville Hotel and Restaurant. In between meals and wine flights, go antiquing at Your Money’s Worth, shop in Farmhouse Mercantile, and roam in Hendy Woods State Park, which is less than 10 miles north on Highway 128, past the teeny town of Philo. On hot summer days, you’ll see people swimming in cool pools along the Navarro River in the park.

The Apple Farm in Philo

My grandmother was a religious farmstand shopper. No matter where we were driving in Northern California, she knew what unmarked dirt road hid the juiciest peaches in the state, the sweetest corn to toss on the fire. This is surely why a place like Philo Apple Farm catches my eye — a local grower working tirelessly to raise delicious fruit for the lucky few. The farmstand is open daily, so you can stock up on apples and pears for your hiking adventures. A list of seasonal apple options reads like poetry: Black Twig, Cherry Cox, Crimson Gold, Fireside, Fox Whelp, Cinnamon Spice, Fireside. If you find yourself wanting to linger, they have a few rooms for rent and Saturday Suppers in the summer.

Noyo Harbor

If you’re cruising the Mendocino coast, you will undoubtedly stop in the city of Fort Bragg, and for a meal nearby, we point you to Noyo Harbor. The seafood here is as fresh as it gets, with commercial fishing operations coming right up the Noyo River and local restaurants prepping just-caught salmon, rockfish, tuna, halibut, steelhead, and more for delighted diners. Try Noyo Fish Company for fish and chips, fish tacos, and chowder; the woman-powered Princess Seafood Deli and Market; and The Wharf, which has been serving locals and out-of-towners for decades.

Where to Stay in Mendocino County

Little River Inn

This Victorian-style, family-owned property has a great address, right on Highway One and with a rolling lawn in front that’s ideal for cartwheeling while you watch the sunset – which is exactly what my daughter did after our dinner here. Most rooms have sea views and fireplaces to cozy up next to, and some have their own hot tub. We were not overnight guests, but we thoroughly enjoyed our meal here, especially the chef’s incredible clam chowder and olallieberry cobbler à la mode. The energy of this space is too good, with locals and guests buzzing together at the adjacent Ole’s Whale Watch Bar, which, of course, has bar stools facing west to the sea.

Thatcher Hotel

Set inland in the adorable town of Hopland (pop. 899), Thatcher Hotel has 18 simple-but-stylish rooms and is a great accommodation option if you’re planning to do some wine tasting in the area, or if you’re heading to a wine country wedding. The hotel was established in 1890, but its current look is the result of a somewhat recent renovation. Read a book in the first-floor library, have a cocktail at the incredible, saloon-like Bar Thatcher, and enjoy coffee and pastries from Cafe Poppy, also off the lobby. When I’m in town, I make sure to walk down the street to look for treasures at Country Porch Antiques and have a classic diner breakfast at Bluebird Cafe.

The Inn at Newport Ranch

Back at the coast and just north of Fort Bragg, The Inn at Newport Ranch sits on more than 2,000 acres of private land, complete with a working farm and cattle ranch. The inn has just 10 rooms, making it a pretty incomparable private escape (one that’s sometimes booked out for wedding parties and such). I love all the wood paneling and furnishing in the rooms – seaside lodge vibes to calm the soul – as well as the 25-plus miles of on-property trails. The inn team will help you book adventures, too, like forest bathing and seasonal foraging excursions. They also plant a redwood tree for every guest – better yet, they’ll help you plant the seed yourself.

Mendocino Grove

For a glamping experience, consider Mendocino Grove. The site has 60 tents set up in well-spaced “neighborhoods,” as the resort calls them. Each tent is furnished with comfy beds, wool blankets, and a deck with leather butterfly chairs perfect for resting and redwood watching. There’s live music around the campfire on select summer nights, and a campfire cookout series, too.

The Stanford Inn

A rustic hilltop lodge with 41 rooms and suites, The Stanford Inn is just one mile from Mendocino Village, and it offers anything you might need for rest and relaxation, and/or play and adventure. Activities readily available for guests include yoga and tai chi classes, mushroom and kayak tours, garden tours and cooking classes, and guided meditation. Vegan breakfast at the on-site Ravens Restaurant is included in your stay, and the inn recently opened Catch A Canoe and Bicycles Too, a rental site right at Big River Estuary where travelers can book kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, and bikes to explore the area.

When to Go

Mendocino is a year-round destination, with adventure options any season and a temperate climate. Winter is good for whale watching, with boat trips out of Fort Bragg’s Noyo Harbor — there’s even an annual whale festival celebrating the gray whale migration. Spring and summer bring wildflowers and myriad events worth a drive (or flight), including Mendocino Music Festival, Anderson Valley Pinot Festival, and a June urchin festival. Note that individual wineries curate their own calendars of events, too, so consider those as you’re planning your trip.

How to Get Here

Mendocino is a long trek from San Francisco International Airport at 176 miles, but it’s an incredible road trip if you have the time, bringing you through Sonoma County towns, like Petaluma and Healdsburg, before plopping you on Highway 128. The highway pitches you left and right as you curve west through redwood forest. Stopping at Navarro River Redwood State Park is a must, and the aforementioned Boonville is here, too. You’ll still take this highway (and shorten your driving journey) if you fly into Sonoma County’s regional airport in Santa Rosa. From there, Mendocino Village is 95 miles away.